Emma D'Arcy in ES Magazine

For the May 17th issue of ES Magazine actor Emma D’Arcy, the House Of The Dragon star, wears The London Leatherman LV3 Waistcoat, styled with a Loewe shirt.

#WhatsYourDrinkOfChoice

#NegroniSbagliatoWithProsceccoInIt

#Stunning

Photographer: @sarahpiantadosi
Style Director: @jessicaskeetecross
Hair Stylist: @jodytaylorhair
Make Up: @phoebewalters
Producer: @colesontoast
Interview: @jo.m.taylor
Talent Director: @tommacklinstudio
Editor: @bengcobb

Collaborator Profile- Mark Moore

Dance music producer Mark Moore was one of the first super star DJ’s to come out of the post punk movement and having been a teenage punk rocker lead to him having his finger on the pulse when it came to the early 1980s club scene. A proper London face he’s had great success with his band S’Express whose hits epitomise the early acid house genre.

Questions by Dave Carroll

DJ Mark Moore. Photo by Rob Milton.

Q. Mark, for this Q&A I thought we’d discuss scenes we know each other from, starting with the Music Machine in Camden Town circa 1978, where nearly every second person in the club wore a studded belt or wristband cuff. What was your go to outfit, complete with accessories to wear to the Music Machine?

A. Definitely my leather jacket. I was broke most of the time so my clothes were from charity shops and the Army Surplus store (was that Laurence Corner?). White shirts dyed pink. Trousers that were flares that were converted into drainpipes. T-shirts from 5th Column who did those amazing screen prints of Siouxsie & The Banshees, The Clash and Patti Smith (I still have those!). Lots of badges from Better Badges in Portobello. You’d earn a bit of cash there putting the pins in the badges and get some free ones as well. I think I had some bondage trousers from Beaufort Market that were a bit ropey! I didn’t get anything decent until Sid and Nancy gave me a pair of black Seditionaries bondage trousers which I still have.

Mark Moore wearing his vintage leather jacket styled with a parachute shirt.

Q. For anyone that hasn’t heard it, can you tell your fantastic Sid & Nancy story?

A. People at school would say 'Sid Vicious lives near me,’ or ‘Johnny Rotten lives round corner from me,’ so me and my mate Lance or my brother, would go round and knock on their door. We went to see Sid in Maida Vale and Nancy Spungen opened the door. She thought we were cute and invited us in. Sid was adorable. Really docile and like a sleepy puppy and Nancy was just the kindest person who made us feel welcome. I’m one of the few people who actually has something nice to say about Nancy!

Nancy got out her collection of cock rings to show us. How else do you entertain two 14 year old kids? She told us who they all originally belonged to and pulled out a ginormous one saying, ‘This one belonged to Johnny Thunders.’ Then she pulled out the tiniest one in the collection, ‘And here’s Sid’s.’

When we left she said, ‘Sid they’re real fans, we have to give them something!’ We came away with Seditionaries bondage trousers and t-shirts. Things that we could only dream about owning at the time. We left talking about how nice they were and how they must have had a late night as they seemed really sleepy. We were so naive, had no idea until months later that they were probably on heroin. They just seemed normal to us.

Hanging out in John Lydon’s house in Gunter Grove, Kings Road is another story for another time. Sid was great but meeting Lydon properly was brilliant. It was obvious you were meeting the brains behind the Pistols even at that early age and I found that even more exciting.

Q. We saw each other every Friday night for about five years at the Mud Club, I distinctly remember you DJ-ing wearing a La Rocka! cut off jacket, black jeans, studded belt, black flat-top haircut. What would you say is the best record (or records) with a reference to leather?

A. How do you remember this stuff? Mind blown. I’d go for Amanda Lear’s Enigma (Give A Bit Of Mmh To Me). There’s no reference to leather in the song but she’s wearing leather and brandishing a whip in the video. I was exposed to Miss Lear and and a world of leather, amongst other things, when I went to my first gay club. Heaven in Charring Cross shortly after it opened in 1979. They were playing Amanda Lear upstairs on the video screens and I was besotted. I’ve since looked on YouTube for it and can’t find it so perhaps I imagined it!

But I guess you want something bit more punky? Oh let’s see… what comes to mind? Off the top of my head Cherry Vanilla ‘The Punk’ or Pete Burns and Nightmares On Wax ‘Black Leather’.

Q. The Cage Record Store early 80s in the Great Gear Market, Kings Road, you were always there with Tasty Tim. Frisco Leathers was nearby and stocked The London Leatherman items. Did you get your studded belt from Frisco Leathers, if no, where did you get it?

A. The Great Gear Market, I would go and hang out with Tim who worked at The Cage there which was Rusty Egan’s record shop. 

Tasty was talking about Frisco Leathers recently and how all the shops in the Great Gear Market were open plan. But Frisco Leathers was enclosed behind makeshift walls like you were entering a sex shop or a back room in a gay club. Very intimidating and you had to pluck up courage to go inside. Once inside the guys that worked there were clad in leather looking like they stepped out of a Tom of Finland picture. Again very intimidating until they started speaking and they were the campest queens ever talking in Polari all the time. Really lovely guys.

The studded belts I had were probably from Kensington Market in the basement which was a lot less intimidating to shop at. John Halliday aka Black Beauty and Fabulous Frankie worked there and could often be seen putting the studs in the belts.

To be honest I can’t remember where I got them from. I think they were often gifted to me by kind friends as they were very expensive to buy new. It was easier to get second hand ones as they were cheaper and worn in. You didn’t want them looking brand new back then. You wanted them to look like you had them for years while you were riding your imaginary motorbike around town.

Q. Heaven Nightclub. For punky teenagers like us it was a very important club starting with Cha Cha’s in the back bar on a Tuesday night and when the doors opened to the main club at midnight it was a proper eye opener. Heaven plays an important role in the history of The London Leatherman, what was it like for you the first time you went to Heaven (Nightclub)?

A. Like I said the first time I went it was a real Amanda Lear moment. I was very nervous that time going to my first full on gay night, not knowing what to expect. I was surprised at how nice everyone was. I know cynical people will be thinking that a bunch of older guys being nice to a teenager going there, for the first time, might be a bit suspect. Fresh blood! But the truth is they weren’t being predatory. There’s always been this stereotyping that all older gay men are predatory. But everyone I met that night were just being very protective and coming from a place of empathy. They wanted me to feel as comfortable and as unthreatened as possible. Looking back I’m really impressed by that. Also, I never thought I would be DJing there on the main floor of Asylum and Pyramid three years later!

A bit later, Colin Favor and Kevin Millins, who put on post-punk gigs around London under the name of Vinyl Solution (Joy Division, Wire, Cabaret Voltaire and loads more) started doing gigs at Heaven. So I also saw bands like Throbbing Gristle, Bauhaus and New Order play there. I’m sure you must have been there too.

Q. Taking LSD (me anyway!) and watching films all night at the Scala, mid-80s. What would you say are the top three leather looks in film?

A. The leather chauffeurs outfit in Entertaining Mr Sloane (1970). The bikers in Kenneth Anger’s Scorpio Rising (1963). Maggie Cheung in a black leather catsuit in Irma Vep (1996)

Mark Moore by the juke box at The Scala.

Q. Philip Sallon’s Opera House club night mid-80s where you were a resident DJ. Would you say being a teenage punk rocker influenced your DJ style? If so, how?

A. For sure! In the early days I started DJing at The Mud in The Subway Club (Leicester Square) with Tasty Tim. Our style was a cross between getting people to dance and a bit of performance art. We would intermittently try to annoy the crowd by playing something like Demis Roussos. Everyone would stamp their feet in unison so the needle would jump across the record and start playing the label. They'd be charged up and screaming with delight at that point and then we’d put on the Sex Pistols and the crowd would go bonkers tearing the lights down and smashing up the club. Philip Sallon banned us from playing the Pistols after that.

I was attracted to a lot of the electronic stuff that came through punk. Things like Cabaret Voltaire, early Human League, Throbbing Gristle. That electronic path got me into Kraftwerk and then the electro stuff that was coming from the hip-hop scene. Also the Italo and Hi-NRG stuff which was influenced by New Wave tracks like Depeche Mode. 

Then of course me and Colin Favor started playing Chicago House, Detroit Techno and Acid from 1985 onwards at Pyramid Heaven. Our alternative gay crowd loved it! I also played it at The Mud and The Opera House. Initially, because it was a straighter crowd at the Mud by then, and the floor would often clear as they weren’t used to the crazier sounds of Acid House. But my punk DNA meant I would keep playing it anyway rather than say, ‘Well I won’t play that again.’ I knew those records were great. After a couple of weeks those tracks that cleared the floor would start getting them running onto the floor. They became anthems. Things like Strings Of Life, Sleezy D’s I’ve Lost Control, Phuture’s Acid Tracks. Stay true to what you believe even if you’re the only one believing it at the time.

Q. Who was your favourite leather wearing punk rock idol?

A. The Ramones! And dare I say it, Billy Idol. That video of him in a jock strap and suspenders! Beyond!

Classic Cone Studs

The classic cone stud has been re-imagined for 2024 to a size and shape that can be threaded through your jean belt loops. Studded onto our superior quality vegetable dyed black leather the LW3 Belt comes with a removable matching D-ring belt loop.

Made in England.

From The Archive- The LV4 Neckband & Wristbands with Square Pyramid Studs

In 1976 glamour model Susan Shaw modelled the LV4 Square Pyramid Stud Neckband & Wristband styled with a 3 Row Hex Stud Belt with D-Rings that The London Leatherman supplied to 430 Kings Road, Chelsea London.

Today the LV4 accessories are available with solid Pyramid Studs on superior black leather on or chrome look silver leather.

Photograph of Susan Shaw by Aaron Ghetti & Ed Cooper, 1976 on stairs inside 430 Kings Road. Image courtesy Brandon Sinclair Archive NZ.

Talking About The Kit- Nick Clements

Nick Clements is the founder of the magazine Men’s File. He’s a photographer best known today for documenting vintage and revivalist scenes, who himself doesn’t fit into just one area of interest but many, he's a motorcyclist, cyclist, skateboarder and surfer. Over the years Nick’s photographed Dave many times and featured The London Leatherman in his publications.

Nick circa 1995 on his Moto Guzzi 850GT California, jacket is a 1970s H-D AMF.

 Questions by Bridget Veal Carroll

Q. In 2010 Dave and I bumped into you in the west end just as you were releasing issue 02 of Men’s File magazine, it was at the same time Dave and Lloyd Johnson were reviving the La Rocka! label. Your cover shoot for issue 02 captured so much of what was going on style wise in London at the time with the British rocker v Americana motorcycling look. What inspired you to launch a magazine that you’ve described as ‘A modern(ist) magazine tracing the roots of style’?

A. Dave Carroll is one of the few real Londoners I know. Many of us, who ended up in scenes in the capital in our late teens or early twenties, came from the suburbs. I lived in Surrey in the late 1970s and got all my information on style from hairdressers, the NME and films. There were many more like me. Those films were either American noir or Italian neorealism and were steeped in modernist aesthetics. The buzz of Paparazzo’s Vespa in La Dolce Vita or the click of David Hemmings’ Nikon F in Antonioni’s Blow-up were rooted in the cult of the machine, straight lines and a creative logic that seemed irresistible. Totally unoriginal, I started as a soul boy wearing pegs, Jam shoes and an American Army shirt with a tie tucked in halfway down the front. I wanted to be Bryan Ferry, but then punk and new wave arrived and pitted postmodern rock (punk) against modernist pop (new wave). All this, and so much more, formed the building blocks of Men’s File.

Q. From day one Men’s File has had a cult following with those who are committed to mid-century aesthetics. These scenes vary from vintage motorcycling to surf culture, mid-century collecting to militaria. Where does your interest in revival stem from?

A. Perhaps it started (indirectly) with the London Rock and Roll Show in 1972, when Jerry Lee Lewis, Chuck Berry and Little Richard performed at Wembley in front of an audience of Teddy boy revivalists. Without that momentum, George Lucas’ American Graffiti might not have been the success it was one year later in 1973 and that’s where I came in. In the same way that Blow-up has launched a thousand fashion photographers, American Graffiti acted as a catalyst for a nascent, car-based revival scene. That’s the problem with history, the variables, no one can say for sure, but punk rock was an interlude in all the nostalgia, that unintentionally directed people back towards revival and some confused notion of an authentic past, that had been lost and needed to be revisited and sorted out. In 1979 I was 18 and I bought a small frame Vespa 90 Special. By 1981 that had been replaced by a Consul Mk. I. A year later a 1963 Alfa Romeo Giulia spider. The die was cast.

Q. The London Leatherman has its own cult following, what’s your take on the label’s appeal to leather aficionados?

A. If you have the mind of a modernist, it’s not hard to link Bryan Ferry’s image of the mid-1970s, the drawings of Tom of Finland and Ted Post’s Magnum Force (1973). The common factor being the uniform as a medium through which style and sexuality can be expressed (for men and women). The London Leatherman follows a similar line, in that it subverts the symbolism of the uniform by repositioning its meaning. For example, through leather fetishism, words like discipline and power are shifted away from an association with the sinister apparatus of the state to the nightclub or bedroom. Machismo is reframed and redirected, while an underlying mood of chaos and anarchy are implied in the brand’s connection with punk rock. When assessing The London Leatherman, it’s hard to get Anger’s Scorpio Rising (1963) and Montgomery and Bigelow’s The Loveless (1981) out of your head. It’s clear that your label is run by enthusiasts for enthusiasts. 

Q. You and your clique really did spearhead the recent fashion for heritage clothing and what’s been coined ‘vintage workwear’, which perhaps peaked commercially in 2012-2016. Is heritage clothing and vintage workwear still relevant in 2024?

A. In my previous responses I’ve tried to give some background to a style movement, that is too big to be a subculture and too small to be part of mainstream fashions. In London at least, it's based on a group of street stylists whose responses to the soul scene, punk, new wave, the new romantic event and then rockabilly and other revivals, shaped the style landscape as we see it today. Some from the first generation, like Christos Tolera and Chris Sullivan, are directly connected through the Soho club scene of the early 1980s. Others, like Dave Carroll of The London Leatherman and Lloyd Johnson are rooted in the various King’s Road-based subcultures of the 1970s. Many are unknown, except by those they influenced. What is clear is that these pre- and post-punk style-makers created a foundation on which alternative male dress in the capital has been formed. They tend to come from two different aesthetic schools. The first are from a linage that starts with the mods and leads to the soul boys, which I call the ‘clean’ subcultures and who tend towards order rather than chaos – as is the way of modernism. The second come from another place, in which black leather reigns supreme and the tendency is in the direction of anarchic expression. All this experimentation of the mid-20th century plays out today in the workwear look (it’s not a subculture) that, in postmodern style, incorporates a mash-up of those clean and chaotic elements. I will use the term ‘hipsters’ as I have no other, (a broad and diverse group that range from the almost avant-garde to the mainstream) come at the end of a line of style that combined historical elements and mixed leather with a crisp white shirt and engineer boots with a Savile Row suit. They took the functionality of Eddie Baur and matched that with raw denim. They walked the streets as lumberjacks and LAPD bike cops. They stood at bus stops in US Army fatigues and Red Wings. They sat in Bar Italia in Red Line Levi’s and a McGregor freezer jacket. This was 1995 and their number in London was probably less that 500 individuals. Today, that might be 50,000. Post 1995 was the start of the epoch of Japan and the replica and – in terms of American workwear – we haven’t looked back since.   

Q. You and Dave have many mutual interests, what subjects do you feel you mostly bond over? Clothes? Motorcycles?

A. I like to listen to Dave, as he always has something to say that I learn from.

Q. You photographed Dave and I back in 2015 for Men’s File, which was a wonderful experience. You were devoted to getting the shot you wanted and have a talent for directing your subjects quite specifically. Amongst the thousands of photoshoots you’ve done, do you have a favourite?

A. I have enjoyed too many shoots to pick one.

Q. Our mutual friend Jasper James assisted you for a time in the 90s, he once said you were famous for lighting and how you set up lighting for a shot, this was of course at the time when you used film and good lighting was imperative. Do you still shoot film or only digital these days?

A. That’s kind of Jasper, to mention me. Jasper is a serious photographer today and I often look at his work. In terms of my own lighting. I still use film lights if they are around, however, I rarely use more than two lights.

Q. Leather clothing’s timeless and crosses over so many sub-cultures, styles, eras. Why do you think leather’s so stylish?

A. I gave some long answers above that probably answer that question. However, it’s something to do with its connection with the uniform, combined with functionality.

Nick circa 2017 wearing a Himel Bros. leather jacket.

Q. You yourself have many, many, many leather jackets. Do you wear leather day to day or just for motorcycling?

A. I mainly wear my leather jackets on the bike, however, I have a lightweight Lewis Leathers jacket that is great to wear all the time.  

Q. What’s the best motorcycle you’ve owned and is there a motorcycle you hope to own one day?

A. I have owned (3 slightly different models) of, what is for me, the best motorcycle. The Moto Guzzi 850GT California.

Q. Are you working on any projects this year you can tell us about here?

 A. I’m working on another photo-book in the Unseen Scene series. That will be available on the Men’s File website in March 2024. www.mensfile.com

Issue 02 of Mensfile Magazine, circa 2010.

Talking About The Kit- Alan Jones

Anyone with even an inkling of interest for British fashion history will recognise Alan Jones from the 1976 photographs taken by David Dagley inside Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s shop SEX, he’s the young blonde in red trousers wearing The London Leatherman studded wristbands and the PERV (spelt out with chicken bones) T-shirt Vivienne made for him. Today he’s an international film critic, author, broadcaster, journalist, a director of the horror genre film festivals FrightFest & Trieste S+F and this year will be releasing his memoirs.

Questions by Bridget Veal Carroll

Alan Jones pictured here, third from the left, in David Dagley’s photograph from 1976.

Q. Alan, 2024 is the year you’re releasing your memoirs, an autobiography so many with an interest in sub-cultures are eager to get their hands on. Without giving too much away how do you synopsize the book? And how have you found the experience?

A: ‘Discomania’ is the title of what I’m calling a semi-autobiography. While I was inner-circle Sex Pistols/ Bromley contingent, I was also heavily into the Disco scene. I found I had more pick-up success in the Earls Court clubs (Catacombs) and pubs (The Colherne) than in the Punk environment. The book begins with how I easily went from working in Vivienne and Malcolm’s SEX shop to cruising the Chelsea streets. I then review 105 Disco movies from THE MACK (1973) to THE BEAST IN THE JUNGLE (2023), say why they are Disco important, give a rundown of what Disco music they feature, have interviews with my top Disco star producers of the day and what memories, either from a date or subject point of view, they spark about my Punk years, from my T-shirt arrest, first Pistols gigs and the ‘God Save the Queen’ Boat Party to my role in THE GREAT ROCK ‘N’ ROLL SWINDLE (1980), my friendship with Sid Vicious and advising director Alex Cox on SID & NANCY (1986). For the first time I tell those stories from my angle, rather than read what others have said in their own books on the subject. So what you get is in depth reviews of the movies - obviously I deal with SATURDAY NIGHT FEVER (1977), CAN’T STOP THE MUSIC (1980) etc. but it’s the lesser known gems I wanted to bring to to people’s attention like the Argentine LA DISCOTECA DEL AMOR (1980) and the Italian JOHN TRAVOLTO…DA UN INSOLITO DESTINO (1979)- and my insider info on my days working in SEX. The book will be published by FAB Press in July 2024 with a launch at the Fantasia Festival in Montreal, Canada, where I am also curating a Disco movie season including the new Severin 4K restoration of THE MUSIC MACHINE (1979), considered the British answer to SATURDAY NIGHT FEVER.

Q. Your sartorial choices in 1975 through to 1977 are an inspiration for an unmentionable number of designers and fashion houses with your picture having been on studio mood boards for over 45 years now. How would you describe your style back then? Any favourite looks you self-styled?

A: Anything Vivienne designed I wore. I loved the LET IT ROCK pop star silk screens, the ones with names in glitter and the nude playing card plastic windows. The bondage trousers were fabulous, still my favourite Vivienne design. Sometimes I can’t believe I would walk down the street in the Anarchy shirt complete with swastika, the first Pistols group T shirt with the naked underage boy, the fist-fucking Tom of Finland shirt or the Cambridge Rapist side-tie. It was the 1970s, everything was a ‘fuck off’ to the establishment whether from a sexuality point of view, a political one or a fashion statement. And Vivienne’s scum manifesto shirts said it all. One of my favourite self-styled looks was first covering my torso with fake blood (I knew many make-up artists at the time because I was just starting out in my horror journalism career), applied with a hypodermic syringe, then I put Vivienne’s see-through pink nylon T shirt over the top, slightly smudging the blood, so I looked like I’d just come from an S&M orgy. I lost count of the time people in cars would slow down and offer me a lift!

Q. You’ve held on to many pieces of clothing and accessories from your time as a founding punk rocker, for instance you still have the The London Leatherman wristbands you bought from SEX. Of these items are there any you have a particular affection for?

A: Sadly the PERV shirt, spelt out in chicken bones, and the one Vivienne exclusively designed for me, eventually crumbled to dust. I kept the Tom of Finland shirt too mainly because I still can’t believe I actually fitted into it, and I have one of the rare ‘Holidays in the Sun’ handkerchiefs, mainly because I stole it from Pistol Steve Jones as he used to wear it knotted on his head like Northern geezers on the Blackpool beaches. I kept all the London Leatherman  accessories mainly because I wore them long after I left the Punk scene. They had another 20 years of life in them on the gay scene. Talk about value for money!

Q. I’d love to know your perspective on how leather became part of the punk rock look? And why you and your peers wore studded leather?

A: I’ve said this many times before but Vivienne was so ahead of the curve in many aspects of fashion. The moment she designed the bondage trousers and then brought in the London Leatherman wristbands to complete the look, without really thinking about it she crystalised the gay clone look that still perpertuates to this day. I was one of the Village People before that Disco act was even minted by producer Jacques Morali.

Q. In 1977 you and your friend made a fabric version of The London Leatherman LW11 Zip Mouth Mask to wear to a Sex Pistols gig. What do you remember about the leather mask? And the impact it had being in the shop SEX?

A: It was made for the seminal Pistols gig at the El Paradise club in Soho. Essentially I asked my clothes designer best friend Jean Seal to construct a cloth version mainly because I knew wearing the actual leather version was going to be so hot while carrying out my DJ duties. I did a dummy run and the sweat just poured off my face and became a neck fountain! On that particular night I took money at the door of the club, helped the band backstage and then turned DJ before their set started. Jean is one of the unsung heroines of the 1970s. She had designed a onesie outfit for me to wear at a pop star wedding (The Faces, Tetsu married my friend Vanessa) and she was the first person I thought of to sew the mask. In truth, apart from being a visual punchline, I don’t think the mask resonated with Punks, perhaps it was too far into the hardcore gay scene than they liked?

Q. What memories do you have of The London Leatherman and the items McLaren and Westwood bought to stock in their shops?

A: The studded accessories were there, we sold them. I wish I could tell you more but I had nothing to do with either acquiring them or ordering them. I was only a lowly sales assistant, all that was left to the far more capable Jordan.

Q. You’ve carved a long and successful career around your enthusiasm for film, in particular horror. Is there a film that ignited this initial interest? Or a film that has significantly impacted your life and career?

A: Horror fans will know the two stories I’m about to relate. The first X certificate horror film I ever saw was Mario Bava’s BLOOD AND BLACK LACE (1964), which is now considered a masterpiece of the Italian giallo/thriller genre. It sparked an interest in the director, his other films, extreme gore, gorgeous production design and Italy in general. In my horror journalism career I have been credited with drawing attention to the, then, unsung heroes of Italian  shockers like Lucio Fulci, Bava, Sergio Martino and Antonio Margeriti. And when I saw the 1970 giallo THE BIRD WITH THE CRYSTAL PLUMAGE it began my love affair with all things Dario Argento. His 1980 sequel to SUSPIRIA (1976), INFERNO (1980), remains my favourite horror film ever, (it’s tattooed on my arm), it was the reason I met him, became his close friend, went on location with him on every film since OPERA (1987), wrote my book on his work (‘Dario Argento: The Man, the Myths & the Magic’ ) and helped him with his autobiography ‘Fear’ in all language territories. Argento is still my favourite horror director.

Q. What would you say are the three strongest leather looks featured in film?

A: That’s difficult as there are so many…. One has to be Marlon Brando in THE WILD ONE (1953) because it’s still the look many in the gay leather community aspire to. I suppose THE LEATHER BOYS (1964) carried that iconic look further. And then there was Mel Gibson in MAD MAX (1979), who wore it so well I tried to copy him (badly!).

Q. What are the best film scenes, if any, that have captured the founding years of punk rock?

A: None because the raw, street authenticity of the period can never be captured no matter how hard people try. Danny Boyle you should be ashamed!

Q. There are legendary stories that have followed you for decades, like how you were arrested in 1975 for wearing the Two Cowboys T-shirt, being part of the Bromley Contingent and for attending the infamous boat party with the Sex Pistols during the Queens Silver Jubilee, all things I’m sure you’ll cover in detail in your book. Is there anything readers may find surprising about the book, and you feel inspired to touch on here?

A: Yes, when top TV producer Mike Mansfield asked me to front a music programme on Punk titled ‘The Best of British’ featuring The Damned, The Adverts and the Rich Kids… what happened I’m not revealing here. And how about my writing mentor at the time being Jackie Collins? Yes, Joan’s sister and Hollywood Wife herself! Too many to mention…

Q. For anyone just now discovering FrightFest and Trieste S+F how do you describe them?

A. FrightFest is the UK’s top horror fantasy festival now in its 25th year. Every August Bank Holiday, we show over 70 new genre movies to the best community ever. We also stage Halloween events and are the main genre strand at the Glasgow Film Festival every March. If you are a genre fan, you should attend, so what’s stopping you. While I instigated FrightFest with two other people, mainly stemming from my iconic 1980s event Shock Around The Clock (I explain all in the recent documentary SCALA!), I was hired by the Italian City of Trieste to be the artistic director of the Trieste Science+Fiction Festival which has been running off and on for over 60 years now. Because Trieste is my second home, it was an easy decision to make and I love the contrast between both festivals as I continue working as a film critic, journalist and unit publicist.

www.frightfest.co.uk

www.sciencefictionfestival.org

www.fabpress.com


Collaborator Profile- Richard Walker

The artist Richard Walker took a series of photographs in 1975 that include rare images of inside Vivienne Westwood & Malcolm McLaren’s boutique SEX at 430 Kings Road and The London Leatherman shop in Battersea. Jordan Mooney referred to a photograph Richard took of her at this time as being one of her favourites.

Best known for his painting, graphic art, murals and prints Richards’s next show will be at Coningsby Gallery in London this summer, 2024.

Questions by Dave Carroll

Interior of 430 Kings Road with The London Leatherman product displayed on the left. Photo by artist Richard Walker, 1975.

Q. Richard, in 1975 you visited both the shops SEX and The London Leatherman to take photographs. Why and how did you come to take these pictures, especially The London Leatherman one’s, which are so rare when Ken was pretty strict on not allowing pictures in the shop?

A. I was in my 2nd year at Camberwell School of Art and we had been set a journalistic photography project called ‘Secret London’, so I went in the car with my tutor… who was also head of department and a kindred spirit. She had previously spotted the London Leatherman on Queenstown Rd that looked interesting, but thought it was a private club. Meanwhile I had seen SEX on the King’s Rd and also thought it was private. So we went to investigate. Somehow we managed to get to take photos…I think we explained it was a personal project and it worked. However I’ve mislaid the Leatherman images, but hopefully they’ll pop up when I stop looking!

Q. How did you come to discover The London Leatherman shop? What do you remember about it?

A. The London Leatherman with it’s wooden frontage and small window stood out in amongst its fairly humdrum neighbours. It was immediately appealing with it’s dark interior and…fish tanks, if I remember. It was like a nightclub, and because this was only 1975, it seemed quite extreme for the time.

Q. You’ve captured a pivotal time in fashion history with the 1975 photographs and you really had to have some guts walking into both of these shops, let alone go in and take pictures. How did you find the experience? Intimidating? Or not that big of a deal because it was pre- the hype surrounding punk rock?

A. Initially it was intimidating, but I liked that. I encountered Jordan and admired her defiant attitude, but I detected a vulnerability too. This is what she liked about the picture I took. It did feel like we were entering into a parallel universe. A little dangerous and claustrophobic. Even at that time I started to sense a shift in the culture and I was excited and ready for it. I’m not sure if I even knew the word ‘subculture’ at that time.

Q. Did you get anything from The London Leatherman or from SEX? Is there anything you wish you had?

A. As I was a student and didn’t have much money at the time, I only ever had one t-shirt from SEX…the one with the ranting text all about which side of the bed you were on! God only knows what happened to it. I think it just disintegrated in some sweaty club somewhere… I was never really a punk, but used the energy to create my own persona.

Self portrait by Richard Walker taken in 1975/76 ‘This is what I call my ‘proto-punk’ period. As soon as punk went mainstream I abandoned that look!’ Richard’s wearing a The London Leatherman made ciré T-shirt in black.

Q. What’s your opinion on the association The London Leatherman had with the leather scene, gay interest and the new sexual liberation of the 70s?

A. As I was only 20 at the time, I had yet to embark on my gay adventures, and as it was only 1975 the choices were limited, even in London. However these 2 venues certainly signalled there was a whole world waiting for me, so yes, 2 important cornerstones in the new era just about to start… couldn’t wait really...

Q. How would you say the mid-70s impacted your life and career as an artist?

A. Yes, a huge impact. It was how I developed my individual style. I became a bit of a rebel at college and rejected the course work, much to the dismay of my tutors. I was on a mission, and I saw my opportunity and I took it. I finally won them all over, mainly with my work ethic and dedication. Unbelievably they offered me a job as a visiting lecturer, which proved to me there was something in the air and things were changing. This period of development has been crucial to most of what I have done since.

Q. If you were to choose just one of your photographs from this time, which one speaks to you the most and why?

A. I think it would have to be my one of Jordan, mainly for the reasons above, but also because it communicates to people and is a document of it’s time

Jordan Mooney wearing her The London Leatherman LW3 studded wristband cuffs. Photo by Richard Walker, 1975

Q. Other than the SEX and The London Leatherman photographs, are there any other sub-culture references you’ve observed, documented or photographed as an artist?

A. Yes, many. At the end of 75, Patti Smith released ‘Horses’ and I felt immediately, we had all been waiting for a bold statement like this. Up to then we had had Lou Reed and David Bowie celebrating the demi-monde and alternative lifestyles , but this felt new.. The Warhol set had been hiding in plain site for several years ...influencing those in the know, but now we had a fresh imput of new artists with new sounds and new imagery. I thought that the gay scene could merge with all this, as we were essentially all part of subcultures, which over the decades are now in the mainstream

Q. What can you share about your show this summer at the Coningsby Gallery?

A. Yes, indeed..it’s the next instalment of my personal odyssey… the show is called ‘Revolutions Per Minute’ ..a title suggesting music, politics, fashion, the passing of time and the continuing forward propulsion of ideas. There’ll be key works from all periods to accompany a talk I’m giving called ‘Titian Licked My Ankle’ a virtual memoir: in reality, a spoken word set of stories from my long career to celebrate my 70th birthday.

‘Henry the Horse’ 1978 limited edition screen print from Richards 1979 exhibition ‘Twilight Zones’ at Thumb Gallery Soho, London.

Punk Rock Icon + The Solid Pyramid Stud on Silver Leather

The London Leatherman today is about re-imaging the archive, using only the highest quality materials available to produce clothing and accessories evocative of those that were worn by punk rock icons of the 70s.

In 1976 Jordan Mooney wore one of The London Leatherman silver leather wristbands with square studs on her left wrist for a photo session with Curious Magazine.

Today we produce the same wristband using our solid pyramid studs on silver leather.

Silver Leather Pyramid Stud Wristband — The London Leatherman

Curious Magazine photographs taken inside Vivienne Westwood & Malcolm McLarens shop SEX in 1976. Images courtesy of Brendon Sinclair Archive NZ.

Collaborator Profile- Roger K. Burton

Roger is possibly the London fashion industries best kept secret not only because of The Contemporary Wardrobe his loanable clothing archive located by Russell Square but because of his incomparable knowledge when it comes to youth culture, sub-culture and counter culture. He was part of the group of movers and shakers that dominated the Kings Road in the 60s, 70s and 80s that include his friends Malcolm McLaren, Vivienne Westwood, Lloyd Johnson, Tommy Roberts, Trevor Myles, David Parkinson to name a few. He’s a stylist and the author of the beautiful coffee table book Rebel Threads: Clothing of the Bad, Beautiful & Misunderstood.

 Questions by Bridget Veal Carroll

Model wearing the LT2 Leather T-shirt and Pyramid Stud Wristband Cuff.

Q. Walking into The Contemporary Wardrobe one is confronted with floor to ceiling rails of clothing and accessories with Dave (Carroll) particularly impressed by your collection of Seditionaries boots, John Stevens suits, suede head tonic suits, zoot suits and Leigh Bowery suits. If you were to pic one outfit from the wardrobe you have particular affection for, what would it be and why?

A. Sorry Bridget but that’s an impossible ask. I’d prefer to answer it this way..

When I was a young kid there always seemed to be enticing contests to enter where the first prize would be 5 minutes alone in a toy shop or sweet shop and you could literally take whatever you wanted… So if I were given only 5 minutes in my archive, I would at least try to grab a 1940s zoot suit, a 1960s mod suit and suede coat, the 1950s leather biker jacket that my wife bought from Let it Rock, a 1960s leather jacket by Vince, a 1970s bondage coat by Seditionaries, a pair of rare 1940s fetish shoes, a 70s Swanky Mode dress, and as many 1980s Rachel Auburn dresses as I can possibly carry.

Q. At Contemporary Wardrobe you hold a couple of leather and ciré items of clothing made and designed by The London Leatherman from stockists that put their own labels in. One piece is the LT2 Leather T-shirt with zip on shoulder which has a Let It Rock label sewn in. How did you come to be in the procession of this important piece of fashion history?

A. The leather T-shirt you mention belonged to photographer David Parkinson, who apart from being a key figure in the 60s Leicester mod scene, was one of the first photographers to cover Westwood and McLaren’s shops Let It Rock, Too Fast To Live, Too Young To Die and SEX, also John Krivine and Steph Raynor’s Kings Rd shop Acme Attractions. These shoots were featured in the soft porn men’s magazine Club International. The T-shirt is currently on loan from his partner Val Allam and has just been on display in a punk exhibition at Leicester Museum.   

Q. What memories do you have of The London Leatherman clothing, shop or reputation?

A. Between 1973-1976 my partner Ric and I were relentlessly scouring the suburbs of London for deadstock vintage clothes when we came across this curious wooden clapboard fronted shop on Queenstown Road, called The London Leatherman, with its tiny window display containing a few studded belts and accessories, we were very intrigued to find a shop like this in a deeply unfashionable part of Battersea, however it never seemed to be open. It wasn’t until SEX opened in 1975, and found out that Malcolm and Vivienne were stocking the shops leatherwear designs, that we discovered just how important and influential The London Leatherman was on the international S&M and fetish scene.

Q. In 1993 you curated the exhibition Vive Le Punk at your venue the Horse Hospital in Central London, which Dave has always describes to people as being the definitive exhibition when it comes to Westwood McLaren clothing. Whether it be leather clothing or accessories, who of the punk rockers McLaren and Westwood dressed looked the best in leather?

A. No question, my dear friend Jordan Mooney always looked amazing in her leather outfits, and in particular that fabulous leather cape and pencil skirt outfit from SEX, she looked like she had stepped off the pages of Atomage magazine, and it was featured in John Samson’s seminal documentary Dressing for Pleasure. Jordan was totally fearless in the way she dressed and became the perfect role model for Malcolm’s belief that their SEX leather outfits should be worn in the office.

Q. You actively participated in many of the youth-cultures and eras of clothing that make up your archive, from mod to soul boy, punk rock to 80s club culture. Does your bona fide passion for clothing, and seeking out conversations around these clothes stem from being a mod or something else?

A. I would say it was almost entirely down to those formative years I spent in the mod movement. When the mod scene ended around 1966, I was out on a limb clothes-wise because hippie robes just didn’t have the subtlety and sharp elegance I was looking for. However, around this time there was a revival of clothes from the 1930s-1940s being worn by a couple of bands I was into such as Family and the Purple Gang.  I started collecting and wearing second-hand men’s clothing from this period. Although I think subconsciously those glamourous Hollywood styles had already been instilled in me as a kid through watching film noir movies on the TV. I became quite obsessed with the 1930s style during the mid 1960s, and this really shaped my future taste not only in clothes, but also art, architecture and design leaving a lasting impression on me to this day.

 Q. Yours and our mutual friend Lloyd Johnson (of Johnson’s, La Rocka!) was also a mod, his love of clothing is equally as passionate, and you both went on to have esteemed careers in clothing. When out and about I’ve seen you and Lloyd in deep conversation, other than mod what would you say are your other mutual clothing interests?

A. Ha ha ha, we were more than likely discussing a look we’ve seen, or the way an outfit has been worn, or even just a detail that has impressed us. We are both more than just a bit fanatical about obscure subcultures and men’s and women’s clothing styles from the last 100 years or so, but it’s modernism and its origins that really hits the spot, and this shared passion also covers all aspects of design, art, film and architecture.  Having said that we are also equally fascinated by those rarefied individualists who dare to wear clothes with attitude and commitment today, whatever look they may be into. This is almost certainly because style been such a huge part of our lives. And let’s not forget we were fortunate enough to have been involved in pretty much every clothing revival since the mid 60s, and we are now both keen to share our knowledge and experience with those individuals who are curious enough to inquire.

 Q. Since COVID there’s been a trend in vintage clothing dealers closing their shops to open by-appointment showrooms where they instead offer a fashion consultancy service with items they loan out to stylists, exhibitions and fashion houses. A trend has also been to call the clothing they’ve bought second hand or at auction their ‘personal archive’ with the fashion press hailing them as experts and some as ‘guru’s’, yet having little to no provenance. You presented the concept of having a loanable archive for the fashion industry to access decades ago, an archive you have genuine and first-hand knowledge in. Why do you think so many vintage clothes dealers are making this move now?

A. I can only assume that this trend goes hand in hand with the current plethora of fashion influencers/forecasters on social media, that have also set themselves up as self-aggrandising leading lights for a particular generation who need to be shown what to wear, and slavishly follow them. True vintage clothes have always been hard to find, but what I find most shocking is that these new personal archives and some shops are presenting quite recent retro clothes designs from high street stores such as All Saints, Reiss, Zara and H&M etc and palming them off as vintage, not only to an innocent public, but those professional design teams and researchers of big name fashion brands who seem to be seduced by these pretentiously curated archives and will happily buy into it.

It puts me in mind of a prediction an academic friend made in the late 1960s, that within our lifetime modern non-descript artifacts and clothing would be displayed in museums purely because they have dust on them.

Q. Your book Rebel Threads is a must have for anyone with an interest in fashion styling and 20th century clothing. How did you find the process of working on your own book? And how did you edit your huge archive/ wardrobe down to 328 pages? With the amount of fantastic clothes and knowledge you have, you could’ve easily produced multiple volumes. Will you do more books?

A. Having had many years practice as a stylist I love the editing process, so choosing clothes for the book was relatively easy and came naturally, knowing what instinctively feels right to me in a composition and featuring just enough of those clothes to tell the story and no more.

It’s always been important to me that whoever is wearing the clothes look as if they have always worn them, or at least the outfit belongs to them, likewise when I’m designing a set, a shop or exhibition I try to do it in a way that brings people to believe it has always been there.

I plan to do at least two more photographic books, one that features some of the best of the collection, and another sort of mod handbook, which is going to focus on the style of the clothes, and their subtle details, often lost or not even acknowledged in other publications.

Q. To date, what would you say has been your career highlight?

I have been lucky enough to have such a varied career it’s almost impossible pin it down to one highlight, instead here are a few I’m most proud of..

Shop design: Nostalgia of Mud

Styling: a photo of David Bowie peeping out of a Yohji Yamamoto coat

Production Design: the music video, Only When I Loose Myself, Depeche Mode

Costume Design: the movie Hackers

Entity: The Horse Hospital

Q. What are you working on for the remainder of 2023?

A. I’m putting together a semi-biographical exhibition at the Horse Hospital for 2024 about my life and career loosely based around 3 shops I designed, PX, Worlds End and Nostalgia of Mud, which will heavily feature the many diverse influences that have played a part in almost everything I have done..


Signed copies of Roger’s book Rebel Threads are available to purchase here: Rebel Threads by Roger K Burton (Signed) — The Horse Hospital

 

The Punk Rock Leather T-shirt

The LT2 Leather T-shirt with zip at the shoulder and side of torso is the T-shirt that crosses over into multiple styles and scenes from heavy rock to hip-hop, worn with a long sleeve cotton T-shirt underneath as streetwear or as a layering piece for motorcycling.

At first it was worn by the fashion elite on the Kings Road, Chelsea the groovers that shopped at Granny Takes A Trip and the punk rockers who looked to McLaren & Westwood for style guidance.

The T-shirt is produced in our superior grade black cow hide or in waxed nappa upon request. Made to standard UK sizing.

LT2 Leather T-shirt with zip (front)

LT2 Leather T-shirt with zip (back)

Adam Ant, David Johanson, Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren wearing the The London Leatherman LV4 Leather T-shirt with zip in the 1970s.


Behind The Black Leather LW11 Zip Mask

(ARCHIVE) The LW19 Soft Lip Mask may have been worn by Bowie, featured on T-shirts in the shop Seditonaries and photographed for editorial by David Parkinson. But, it’s the black leather LW11 version of the mask with Zip mouth that really made an impact culturally:

In 1997 a guest to Kate Moss’ Halloween Party in NYC wore the LW11 Zip Mask, a leather collar and leather jeans.

(NEW) The LW11 crafted in black nappa leather and lined with nappa.

Adam Ant wore the LW11 for his 1977 gig at the ICA in London.

If you look closely you can see the LW11 & LW19 Masks lining the ladder in this photograph. The LW19 Silver Leather mask and matching wristband on the shelf too.

It made front page news in 1975.

Collaborator Profile- Ken Jordan

(Note: for this Q&A we refer to Ken Magson, the founder of The London Leatherman, as Ken M)

Many stories, business dealings and customer names during the founding years of The London Leatherman were kept under lock and key and the person that comes closest to having this key is Ken Jordan, the life partner to Ken M from 1972. A statuesque, Adonis like character who at one time served in the Grenadier Guards and knows a thing or two about discretion, and so remains tight lipped about those who frequented the shop privately and wore their The London Leatherman items behind closed doors. However, those who wore the garments publicly he has many fond memories of, from The Sex Pistols to Rudolf Nureyev, the film director Derek Jarman and Tom of Finland models.

Questions by Bridget Veal Carroll

Q. Ken, you were the life partner of England’s most scandalous and provocative leather clothing maker, he was especially scandalous in the 1970s. However, you didn’t wear leather yourself, why?

A. I spent most of my time in the Grenadier Guards abroad, and was never part of ‘the Gay scene’ until I left the army in 1970. The Coleherne was my first experience of the leather scene, and I could not really understand the fascination. I had spoken to Ken M in the Coleherne a few times in 1971 and 1972 and then again in Your Fathers Moustache, a night club opposite, where Ken M did a fire eating act with Simon Munslow-Taylor. Our relationship really started there, taking Simba (the dog) for a walk after his act, dinner at The Casserole, Le Gourmet in Kings Road and in Windsor, it was a real romance. Ken and I both had leather jackets, but not leather jeans. The first pair that Ken made for me was in fact the last pair that he made in 1996, a year before he died. Neither of us seemed to need the use of the ‘toys’ that he made.

Ken Magson (left) and Ken Jordan (right). Photo courtesy of Ken Jordan.

Q. What from The London Leatherman did you wear? Did Ken M ever make anything just for you, custom made?

A. The first items of clothing custom made for me by Ken M, were a light brown suede leather jacket and trousers, that were so tight I could hardly step up and down on the kerb when crossing the road in High Street Ken. Much admired in Kensington Market at the time. During our time together, I don’t think I ever bought shirts or trousers, sweaters, tank tops or cardigans. I would come home from work to find 3 pairs of trousers and shirts in different materials and colours. I did buy a suit from Cecil Gee in the Kings Road that he wanted to take apart, he said he wanted to copy the style and make me another, but I wouldn’t let him.

When we had dinners, Ken always made individual place settings, a leather rose (red, black or silver) for a lady, a small leather teddy bear for the men. On one occasion he made a special Tartan and Leather Teddy Bear for me. When Ken M made the first white Ciré nylon capped sleeve shirt with rounded collar, I wore it on the Saturday when I went to the Sunlight Laundry, next door to Granny Takes a Trip, in the Kings Road. After depositing the sheets, I went to the nearby Cafe for a coffee. A group of lads saw the shirt, and one of them bought it. I took it off and drove back to the shop elated, as was Ken M. He made them in red white and blue, and toweling material and white striped cotton, with or without pockets, a best selling item.

Q. You and Dave (Carroll) often speak about how incomparable Ken M’s creatively was, from his leatherwork, needle work and painting, his poetry, short story writing, even down to how he wrote his private diaries. Which of Ken’s creative talents stand out for you the most and why?

A. There was nothing Ken could not do with any fabric, he loved the challenge of trying new things, and became an expert pattern cutter. His mother taught him to knit and sew during the war, under the stairs, when the German Vl’s were flying overhead. He created many tapestries in wool and silk, for our home and for friends, using Aubrey Beardsley and Alphonse Mucha as inspiration. Perhaps also inspired by the Art Nouveau in Juniper, a stall in Chelsea Market run by Pattie Harrison and her sister, Jenny Boyd. He created beautiful artwork using watercolour and acrylic paints, learned from his aunt who was a local artist in Nelson and Colne Lancashire.

Ken M was a good dance and ice dancer too, and knew some of the great skaters of their day at Queens Ice Rink, especially John Curry, Olympic Gold Medalist 1976, who we both had a great affection for, and we were deeply saddened when he died. In San Francisco 1976 Ken M was offered a job, which he declined, at the ice rink, to teach skating and ice dance. He also taught me, and we spent many hours at Queens during the 70’s and 80’s.

Q. Ken M had a close working relationship with many notable designers and entrepreneurs who would come to see him in The London Leatherman workshop, most documented is his relationship with Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood. How would you describe these relationships?

A. He had a good working relationship with Vivienne Westwood who came to the shop almost on a weekly basis. Vivienne had ideas for what she wanted to produce, and some of her ideas were quite difficult, but Ken M was able to make the patterns so that they would work, and could be mass produced by the ladies who worked for Ken M. I remember her being very protective of the SEX label and always counted the garments against the labels used. Ken also produced for BOY, and collaborated with Maurice Stewart of Fetters, who as far as I know, was the only person to acknowledge, in writing, the contribution made by Ken M to the success of their company. In January 1997, Maurice also helped me write Ken M’s obituary for the Gay press. Alan Selby of Mr S Leathers bought clothing and other items wholesale, and then removed The London Leatherman labels, and replaced them with his own Mr S label, and never, in articles and editorials in America, credited Ken M or The London Leatherman.

Q. Sometimes you would be in The London Leatherman shop when The Sex Pistols came in. What was this experience like and were they as obnoxious as we’re lead to believe?

A. In the summer of 1976 I was sitting in the work room at the rear of the shop, when the Sex Pistols came into the shop with Malcolm McLaren. Of course I was excited to see them, but I took a back seat and let Ken M deal with them. They all acted and behaved very well. They bought a few things, studded belts and wristbands and got measured for pairs of leather jeans. They came again at a later date and had a photo shoot outside the shop. Nothing like the performance with Bill Grundy on the Today Show in December 1976. Nice lads who perhaps were not guided or managed in their careers as they should have been. In retrospect I think they would agree. Ken and I came from a generation that did not gush and blab at every situation or encounter, and of course had no smart phones to snap every occasion that occurred. Consequently there are only a few personal photographs of the period, and one poor photograph of the shop front.

Ken Jordan in the The London Leatherman shop wearing an all-in-one leather suit and LW3 studded belt. Photo courtesy of Ken Jordan.

Q. Who in your opinion wore The London Leatherman clothing and accessories the best i.e looked the most stylish?

A. Me, as far as the none leather look is concerned it was all made to measure, and fitted like a dream. I had 10 Knitted Tank Tops that I rotated and dozens of sweaters and cardigans. I did wear occasionally a leather jump suit, that I wore to the Coleherne, mainly to advertise The London Leatherman, and because it fitted me better than Ken M. Certainly all the Leathermen in the Coleherne who bought from Ken M directly looked great, and of course all the young Punks in the Kings Road, who wore Ken M’s clothing and accessories, whether it was bought from BOY or Westwood/ McClaren. It was fun driving up and down Kings Road looking at the boys and girls modelling The London Leatherman garments.

Q. Today getting a tattoo is nothing, girls can walk into a tattoo parlour on the high street and walk out with a sleeve of flames and roses with no one batting an eyelid. However, you and Ken M were getting tattooed in 1975 when it was utterly outrageous, tattoos were for sailors and outlaws. What prompted you to get tattooed in 1975? And why did you choose the now legendary George Bone of Den of Skulls as your tattooist?

A. Before going to USA for the first time in 1975 Ken M wanted to have a tattoo of a design he had made of a snake. It ran from one arm to the other across his back. Naturally I had to get one too, and had an eagle and tiger’s head on each arm, ready for our trip to USA the following year. We both had further tattoo’s done by George Bone, who was considered the best of the fine line tattooists. We had both seen some really awful tattoo’s on undressed male and female bodies in the shop, and we were determined to have only the best. In total 6 for Ken M and 4 for me.

Q. You’ve lived in SW London for over 50 years and for a big part of that time in Battersea. Why do you think Ken M choose to open The London Leatherman in Battersea in the early 70s?

A. It was not much of a choice, there was a planned road extension (later cancelled) from the embankment at Cheyne Walk, Chelsea, through Shepards Bush to the A40, which would have been disastrous to his shop in Kings Road. In the early 1970’s many long leases in Kensington & Chelsea were coming up for renewal, and we thought that £38,000 for the apartment in Allen Street (where Ken M lived), off High Street Kensington, was an exorbitant amount. So, like many yuppies, we moved across the river to Battersea. The shop had a 15 year full repair lease of £6.50 per week, which suited us fine. We were soon able to buy a 3 bedroom house on Clapham Common West side in 1977.

Ken in uniform, when he was in the Grenadier Guards. Photo courtesy of Ken Jordan.

Q. You’ve travelled a lot and in 1975 travelled to the United States where The London Leatherman was exporting an extortionate amount of leather goods to the East and West coasts of America. Do you have any fond memories of this time in America (that are suitable for sharing!), or any observations about the style scenes and culture out there compared to London at the time?

Ken M’s brother was getting married in Los Angeles December 1975, and Mel and Jan wanted Ken M to make the wedding cake. I flew out to San Francisco 5 days before him, to stay with Mike Gerena an ex Marine, who had a large apartment in the Duboce/Castro area, that is still a very gay area in S.F.

I was overwhelmed by the openness of the Gay community and scene, the shops and restaurants and cafes, and of course the Gay clubs, bars and bathhouses. So different from the restrictive Gay scene in London. Especially the Coleherne Pub at closing time, when the police would harass us with “Move on Boys and Girls.”

The Golden Rivet bar opened and all patrons received a gold rivet on a leather thong, well it was really brass, but I still have it. The Folsom Barracks Bathhouse that burned down in 1981 was in full swing, as were the many Gay venues that later closed there doors as AIDS ravaged and decimated the Gay community. San Francisco was getting ready for Christmas, and the whole city was ablaze with coloured lights and Christmas trees.

The newly built Hyatt Regency Hotel, (the lifts were used in the film Towering Inferno), had a huge clear acrylic Christmas tree that reacted to sound. Carol singers, or people clapping their hands made it shine and sparkle with iridescent light, it was quite spectacular and a unique emotional experience. It was a good time to travel in the States, as the rate of exchange was very good, and food and clothing were so much cheaper than in the U.K.

The London Leatherman was exporting more and more to America, and of course worldwide, so much so that we had a reserve in the States, that we were able to draw upon while we were there. It seemed there was nothing that we could not afford to have or to do, so much so that Ken M and I seriously thought of moving and relocating to America. The Summer of 1976, the Bicentennial year of the American Revolution, saw Ken M and I back in the USA for 3 weeks, this time considering a move across the Pond. We hired a car, an AMC Pacer, instead of the Ford Pinto that was offered, knowing that it was notoriously prone to exploding when rear ended, but we travelled far and wide in the Pacer and drove to Santa Barbara, but we didn't get there. On the way we stopped at Gazos Creek, had lunch and then went down to the beach to swim and sunbathe, but the water was so cold we gave swimming a miss. We both fell asleep and woke up to the sound of about 30 men in overalls running into the sea to swim. They were low category prisoners from a correctional institute or prison, on fire detail, to prevent and extinguish fires in the area, during the hot and dry season. Under the watchful gaze of a guard with a shotgun, we gave them fruit and chocolate and cigarettes. One of the men, covered in tattoos, wanted to show us a seal, up the beach behind a rock, but we both thought it was probably not a good idea, and declined reluctantly. We often wondered if there really was a seal behind that rock……….!

During our stay in America, instead of looking up with rose tinted Ray- Bans, this time I looked down, and saw some of the worst poverty that I had ever seen. People rummaging through dustbins looking for food. Street people and vagrants caked in dirt and filth and living in squaller on the streets. It was an eye opener and certainly influenced our decision not to make the move. I also caught Scarlet Fever, which was not diagnosed by Cedars Sinai Hospital in Los Angeles, on two visits.

Ken M flew back home, and I followed a week later, after he telephoned the awful news that Simba had died of a heart attack.

I spent 2 weeks in St. Thomas’ Hospital, where a consultant told me and his students that he hadn’t seen a case like mine since 1938. Ken M and I settled back into our happy lives, and we never returned to America, except when using Miami International Airport to transit. We took holidays instead in the Canary Islands, Haiti, Greece, Holland and Germany. In 1977 we bought a house, and a car each, a metallic blue Volvo for Ken M and a Polar white VW Golf for me. We also added a puppy, Simba 2, who on a trip to Brighton, chewed lumps out of the back seat, and the seat belts, of Ken’s Volvo, he was furious and didn’t speak at all on the way home.

Archive v New: Belt Loop Key Rings

Belt Loop Key Rings are an accessory The London Leatherman has made since its founding years, with a variety of different studs, dog clips and rings to attach your keys to.

Today we make the Belt Loop Key Rings with a ring and with snap popper fastening so you can add and remove your keys from your belt with ease, at any time. But, also so you can adhere to a bag or use as a stylish accessory.

All The London Leatherman and P&C belts currently come with a complimentary and matching Belt Loop with D-ring that slides onto the belt and can be removed to use as a standard key ring accessory.

ARCHIVE Belt Loop Key Ring with dog clip and Square studs, made circa 1975

Model on left with Belt Loop Key Ring on his belt. All models wearing The London Leatherman,clothing and accessories circa 1975. Photo by Colin Clarke.

0.3 Dome Stud Belt Loop Key Ring in Red Leather, currently in stock.

The Superior Belt Loop Key Ring in Silver Leather, currently in stock.

The LW3 Dome Stud Belt that currently comes with matching Belt Loop D-ring for keys.

The Blockbuster Belt with matching removable Belt Loop with D-ring.

Archive: Studded Cuffs

In the The London Leatherman archive there are many examples of studs that were used in the 1970s and presented on LW10 style cuffs and wristbands in varying designs. Here are two examples showing that some cuffs were stitched, some weren’t. All had double snap popper fastening offered as one-size-fits all.

Large and small Tile studs on a LW10 style cuff, aka wristband with no stitch detail. Made circa 1979.

A LW10 style cuff with a single row of the Beval studs and Square studs on either side, made in circa 1974. This cuff has reinforced stitching.